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Picatinny mount questions

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8shots View Drop Down
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    Posted: May/27/2019 at 08:21
This is the first time that I am fitting a picatinny base mount.
I am using a local product from Lynx as the picatinny rail. They are very strong and robust. So no issues.
This is for my Sako 300H&H on a L61R action.
The rings are Warne 30mm Med lightweight precision.

First issue: 
When the rear base is fixed the front of the picatinny rail shows a very small gap between the rail and the front dovetail base. 80 micron. A business card will not go into the space. The rear base and rail is one piece. This is slid onto the rear dovetail and the front of the rail mates up with the front dovetail base and is screwed down. A coke alu can/ would make a nice spacer.
Question: Spacer or just tighten it down?

Second issue:
The rings fit very loose into the picatinny cross grooves. Is this an issue or just slide them forward and tighten up?

Third issue:
Will the Warne rings 7214M handle the recoil on a Leupold 8x25x50 30mm tube and tactical knobs?

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koshkin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote koshkin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/27/2019 at 09:38
Warne rings again need to be pushed forward in the groove. Recoil should not be an issue.

The base should probably be bedded with some epoxy.

ILya
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote supertool73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/27/2019 at 11:29
On the base use some epoxy like devcon to fill in the gap. Make sure to use a release agent on the action and the base screws. 

I have bedded several bases like that over the years.  Actions are not always square
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RifleDude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/27/2019 at 11:52
I would definitely epoxy bed the base to fill the gap perfectly and ensure a perfectly straight rail surface. I personally like to mix in powdered stainless steel with the epoxy for mount base bedding. Use a thicker gel or paste type bedding compound so it won’t run everywhere when excess squeezes out. Be sure to rough up the underside surface of the mount where the epoxy contacts with coarse grit sandpaper to ensure better epoxy adhesion and use release compound on top of the receiver. The mount screws should be used for alignment and preventing the epoxy from flowing into the screw holes only while the epoxy is curing. You can torque down 1 screw only, wherever the high spot is located, but don’t fully torque it, just snug it. If you tighten all of the screws down when the epoxy is still wet, you flex the rail and create the same misalignment in the finished bedding. Of course, apply release compound to the screws as well. After the bedding has started to set up a little, wipe the excess epoxy that squeezes out from between base and receiver with a paper towel and popsicle stick or similar blunt object to aid you in scraping into the tight corners of the base/receiver joint. Clean off any remaining epoxy residue on top of the receiver with alcohol on a paper towel while the epoxy is still soft.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8shots Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/28/2019 at 00:57
Thanks for feedback. Will follow advice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SVT_Tactical Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/28/2019 at 07:40
Originally posted by RifleDude RifleDude wrote:

I would definitely epoxy bed the base to fill the gap perfectly and ensure a perfectly straight rail surface. I personally like to mix in powdered stainless steel with the epoxy for mount base bedding. Use a thicker gel or paste type bedding compound so it won’t run everywhere when excess squeezes out. Be sure to rough up the underside surface of the mount where the epoxy contacts with coarse grit sandpaper to ensure better epoxy adhesion and use release compound on top of the receiver. The mount screws should be used for alignment and preventing the epoxy from flowing into the screw holes only while the epoxy is curing. You can torque down 1 screw only, wherever the high spot is located, but don’t fully torque it, just snug it. If you tighten all of the screws down when the epoxy is still wet, you flex the rail and create the same misalignment in the finished bedding. Of course, apply release compound to the screws as well. After the bedding has started to set up a little, wipe the excess epoxy that squeezes out from between base and receiver with a paper towel and popsicle stick or similar blunt object to aid you in scraping into the tight corners of the base/receiver joint. Clean off any remaining epoxy residue on top of the receiver with alcohol on a paper towel while the epoxy is still soft.
 
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