Sighting in a Mil/Mil Scope

Sorry for the other post lol... 

So if I was using a laser boresight - and forgive me for my newbness - but couldnt I just turn my scope to match the laser and not fire any shots at all?  Might be an obvious yes answer but I just want to be sure I'm sighting correctly in that process...

In my experience, I always remember " BS "... B=Bullet POI TO S=Scope POI. I use this consistent scope turret movements for both Bore Sighting(BPOI=Bulls Eye) and Zeroing(BPOI=Actual Impact) adjustments!

Simply, if the Bullet POI is at the 10o'clock position from the Bulls Eye (say 1 moa to the left & 1 moa up), I dial 1 moa elevation to the right, and 1 moa windage down, adjusting turrets as a measurement (use mil specs if appropriate). I don't hold the rifle perfectly still to visualize the change while looking through the scope. I find the measurement method easier, following the logic of turret direction, but either will get you on ZERO!

Works for me, but can verify here Scope Zeroing and of course, page one Here of the OP...Christopher!

 

I do some marksmanship instructing for some people and I have had some training from some very well known people and have been shooting mil/mil for sometime now. One of the first things that anyone will tell you is to dry fire, dry fire, dry fire. It will do nothing but help you. Some of the best shooters in the world dry fire more than they actually shoot live ammo. One of the first things I do when I get to the range is get a nice steady position built, usually in the prone with the front of the gun on bags or bipods, and a sandsock under the buttstock. I will then get straight behind the gun focusing on my body position and natural point of aim, I then relax myself and start dry firing for at least 15 minutes before loading my first round, while doing this I am focusing on my point of aim, my breathing, relaxing, body position, and trigger pull. I aim my reticle at the exact point to which I will be aiming when I shoot that first round. Once everything feels just right and I am back in the groove, I will chamber my first round, these shots should be good because I've already shot them 20-30 times. One key here is the steady position of the gun, as one guy was saying about not seeing the impact exactly, with a good position and a decent scope you should always fall right back on target before the bullet impacts at distance, this should be practiced at all times. If using bipods put some forward pressure on them and take the "slack" out of them. Use your firing hand, except your firing finger and pull the gun into you. Now I will fire not 1 but 3-5 rounds not worrying about where they hit but that the group is solid. When teaching I will have students shoot at least 5 5 round groups before trying to zero, all you want here is a nice tight group. If I do not get a nice group at first I continue shooting groups until I do, sometimes taking a break and coming back to it to get the group that the particular gun should be acheiving. Then I hold the center cross hair or whatever reticle I may be using on the aiming point in which I was using, then I use it like a measuring tape and I measure the distance to that shot group. I then make corrections on the scope and shot another 3-5 round group, should be dead on at this point, maybe a minor tweak here or there until I hit the center of my group exactly where I am aiming. No point to go down range with a decent scope, 9-10 power can see a hole down range at 100 yds pretty easily. This same method works for MOA reticles or MILS, they are just units of measurement, no need to get wrapped up in what x means at y distance, just use it to measure with. I know this was a little long winded but I love to help people out with stuff like this. Thanks for listening to babble on and on.

Hi Chris,

I do not have the post count to upload an image of the Burris Ballistic MilDot reticle in an XTR 312 that I recently acquired and am wondering if it might be workable to ignore the absolute relationships between the ballistic elements in the reticle below the horizontal windage axis and (with practice) estimate hold over or hold under adjustments based on visual extrapolation of relative distance on the mil dot section of the vertical axis with magnification set to 12x with this rear focal plane device.

http://burrisoptics.com/ballmildot.html

is this something that i need to pay special attention to when buying a scope? i would assume that they would match, or are they known for having reticles in 1 measurement and adjustments in the other? 

How do I zero with that, huh?

Huh!